Saturday, February 28, 2015

Bordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Bordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

OTBN 2015 - Bordeaux Dominus Dominance

OTBN 2015 on unwindWine.blogspot.com

For our annual gathering for OTBN, a Bordeaux theme emerged when Bill brought a Pichon Lalande, and I pulled from the cellar two more vintages for a mini-vertical. Ernie brought a Duhart Milon Rothschild and a Dominus, Lyle brought a Lynch Moussas, Ryan brought a Bahans-Haut Brion, and the flight was on. A couple '97's in the mix also provided a mini-horizontal tasting of that vintage as well.

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night ...

The OTBN (Open That Bottle Night) tradition calls for the event to occur the last Saturday night in February. See our 2011, 20122013 and 2014 OTBN reports.

As written in this blog to explain previous OTBN's, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!

Aside the Bordeaux varietals, Dan and Bob both brought Barolo's and a Ribeuro Duero which highlighted the middle courses.

Prior to dinner we opened with a white flight - Lanson Champagne to start, then, Kistler Chardonnay to accompany Dan's shrimp scampi entree. A selection of artisan cheeses, olive and cheese plate, artichoke dip, vegetables in dill, olive oil accompanied the starter course. The cheeses included Prime Reserve aged five year old cheddar, Drunken Goat red wine infused semi-soft goat cheese, Bellavitano, and aged Parmesan.

Linda's spectacular dinner featured beef tenderloin, pork loin roast, scalloped potatoes, mixed vegetables and brussel sprouts (shown left). 





Wines are listed in order of the tasting course.

Lanson Champagne Brut Rose NV,  to start, then,  

I pulled this from the cellar buried in a case ... its either the last bottle or second to last bottle of a case acquired a while ago. Records say there is one more left in there somewhere. Another OTBN candidate.

A nice start to the evening ... great starter with the starter courses of shrimp scampi, artisan cheeses, fruits and berries.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=327152


Kistler Hyde Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay 1996

This bottle was a gift from Paul H at Pti back around the millennium... a classic OTBN bottle... its time! A grand accompaniment to Dr Dan's classic shrimp scampi dish.

Who said a Chardonnay won't last twenty years? At close to 20 it was time to drink, still within its drinking window, but assuredly past its prime.

Straw or butter colored, medium bodied, crisp and clean in the Burgundian style, a layer of citrus is accented by tones of green apple, hints of almond nut, lychee fruit and pear on a nicely balanced mild acidic finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=61253


http://kistlervineyards.com/

Nova Wines Marilyn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blonde 2013

A fun wine to serve at such occasions is the Nova Wines Marilyn Monroe collection of artist or photo art inspired series wines featuring artwork of photographs of the famous Hollywood movie starlet adorning every bottle that I wrote about in a recent blogpost - Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - A Study in Branding. Bob is not able to drink Reds so we pulled this to get him through the evening... both oogling at the label, and for sipping.

These wines, with their sexy and fun labels have become a collector series with an almost cult like following. The producers have done an extraordinary job with their branding of the Marilyn lines associated with the Marilyn Merlot flagship namesake label, and others. The fun of buying their wines is indicated in this whimsical label Sauvignon Blonde - a play on words of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal, and the Platinum Blonde bombshell that was Marilyn Monroe.

This 2013 release, the sixth in this series of wines based on Sauvignon Blanc, that began in 2008, features a picture of Marilyn, taken by Sam Shaw, while she was spending time with him and his family that the producer says "has an intimacy and realness that is rarely seen in her more posed photographs".

Producer's winemakers notes - "Aromas are a combination of fresh violets and a typical herbaceous note that is expected with Sauvignon Blanc wines. Flavors of Meyer lemons and pears abound. This wine explains why we say Marilyn Sauvignon Blonde is the wine we drink daily!"

They say that Sauvignon Blanc is the grape varietal that manifests itself most naturally in its wines, succumbing to less adulteration or alteration than other varietals. This contributes to the consistency in Sauvignon Blanc wines across the spectrum including the price range.


Rear label
I find Sauvignon Blanc to be an ideal wine for the less discriminating or less sophisticated wine drinker with its simplicity and easy drinkability for every day as well as special occasion drinking. Notably, open this bottle, enjoy a glass, put it in fridge, and enjoy another glass again, and again, up to a week or even ten days later. Its good with white cheeses, seafoods, berries and other fruits, and salads.
This was a great accompaniment to Dan's scampi and the artisan cheeses and salads.


Nova Wines Marilyn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blonde Sauvignon Blanc 2013

This 2013 release Sauvignon Blonde is light straw colored, light bodied, crisp, clean, and flavorful with lemon citrus tones turning to pear and stone with a tangy lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1866356

http://www.marilynwines.com/WINES/SAUVIGNON-BLONDE 

 

Fontanafredda Barolo Lazzarito Riserva Vigna la Delizia 1999

Dan brought this Langhe Nebbiolo Barolo from his cellar.

Dark inky colored, full bodied, black raspberry fruit with  flavors of leather, brown spice, truffle/mushroom hints of tar and earth with firm but nicely integrated tannins.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1365050 

http://www.fontanafredda.it/web/en/
 

Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Maximo Tempranillo 2005

I am not typically a fan of these wines that reflect their hot climate origins with intense somewhat masculine forward non-fruit flavors. Never-the-less, this was approachable and more polished than many.

Dark inky color, medium-full bodied, black berry fruits accented by notes of tobacco, tar, and a smoky creosote, with bright vibrant acidity and firm tannins.

One reviewer cites tones of 'reduced balsamic vinegar' which I find descriptive and appropriate, but I would not have picked up on. From here on, I can add that to my wine 'vocabulary', as written about in my Wine Tasting 101 blog.

Producer's notes - notably bright, with an abundant acidity one would not expect to find in a wine of such sweetness and density. The aromas and flavours show black cherry and the classic notes of dark berries predominating in tempranillo grown in Ribera del Duero, which gets very hot in summer but which has a very good (although frankly cold) climate most nights. There are a lot of spices and smoked oak among the fruit signatures, and great complexity

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=723520

http://www.arrocal.com/

Grace Family Vineyards Vineyard 29 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

Bill brought this from his cellar. Better than I what remember from earlier tasting, and notes of the 1993 vintage, dark ruby colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated vibrant expressive spicy black berry and black currant fruits, but the '95 tonight has a wonderful tone of nicely balanced, subtle sweet red berry fruit that predominates over a subtle layer of spice, mocha, and anise,with smooth nicely integrated fine-grained tannins on the finish.

RM 93

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=286122

http://www.vineyard29.com/







Château Duhart-Milon Rothschild Pauillac 2000

This wine was included in a mixed case we gave Dr Dan in a rack for his wedding gift back thirty plus years ago. Our shared interest in and joint pursuit of fine wine grew from there. Brought by Ernie from his cellar.

This resembled a Margaux as much a Pauillac with its refined, polished elegance and sophistication. Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, well balanced, full foward aromatics broadcast its full floral and dark berry flavors, accented by tones of anise, cedar, tobacco and soft oak, hints of graphite, earth and tar, turning to smooth polished fine grained tannins on the long lingering finish. This presented well, perhaps at the apex of its drinking window.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7062

http://www.lafite.com/en/the-chateaus/chateau-duhart-milon/


Château Bahans Haut-Brion 1995

This wine was brought by son Ryan.  This is the second wine of legendary top growth Haut-Brion.

Dark garnet color, medium bodied, the black berry and black cherry fruits were somewhat subdued being overtaken by notes of cedar, cigar box, slight earthiness turning to tones of anise, smoke, graphite and creosote on a modest tannin finish.

RM 89 points. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21058 

http://www.haut-brion.com/





Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1997, 1991, 1992

Bill started this Pichon vertical bringing the '97 to our tasting, and I supplemented it with the two other vintage releases, '91 and '92. All three exhibited classic Pichon terroir characteristics - full elegant floral, dark blackberry and raspberry fruits, earthy leather and tobacco / tea leaf notes, while each showed vintage effects from the three disparate vintages.

Bill's tasting note posting on Cellartracker - "This was one of my offerings for OTBN 2015. Our host provided a '91 and '92 Comtesse for a fascinating vertical comparison of one of our favorite Bordeaux. Given the poor reputation of the '97 vintage, I was pleasantly surprised by the vibrancy of this wine. Color was a slightly opaque garnet. Nose was floral but with some savory herbal notes. There was ample fruit on the palate in addition to some tea and cola. The '97 is certainly not as complex as offerings from better vintages. It is more one dimensional but compared very favorably to the '91 and '92 which while bigger and a tad more complex were showing some age."

WCC 92 points.

I too thought the '97 showed less structure, fewer tannins and less complexity than the others releases. I sense it is at its peak and won't improve any further. Pichon's tend to be long lived and hang on much longer than one would expect, ala my experience with the 1981 vintage, and subsequent release notes, so don't rush to clear this out just yet.

RM 90 points.

Consistent with earlier tasting five years ago, the '91 vintage initially showed greater complexity, bigger floral, more concentrated fruit, and the most sophistication and balance of the three vintages. The next day, the '92 and '91 seemed to trade places, overtaking the 91 with greater concentration, structure and backbone, however the '91 retained the most polish and greatest balance.

RM 91 and 92 points.

Lynch Moussas 2003

Dominus Estate Napa Valley Proprietary Red 1997

After tasting five different premier Bordeaux, this stands tall as the standard bearer of what they are all striving to achieve. This was the class of the evening, perhaps the best Dominus I've ever had, due in part perhaps to the fact it might be at the peak of its drinking window.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied but with no sensation of weight - complex and concentrated yet nicely balanced and polished, a symphony of flavors, huge aromatics project the flavors of floral and berry fruits accented by sensuous oak, spice, cassis, and touch of dusty rose earthiness and tobacco, but so nicely balanced and polished that no flavors stand out to detract or take away from the harmonious whole.

RM 96 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5417

http://dominusestate.com/


Ninety Plus Cellars Columbia Valley Lot 101 Syrah 2009


Like earlier tastings, I opened this Shiraz to show a contrast in styles and regions, and age, of the same varietal. I've raved about this wine several times in this blog, and tonight, like before, it didn't disappoint, standing up to the other Big Reds. I've stated that this may be one of our favorite drinking wines in our cellar right now, certainly at this price point! Amidst the flight of Bordeaux's Linda begged for this flavorful fruit forward easy drinking favorite. It was a huge hit with the ladies who drank two!

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah




For the transition and desert course I served two whites, - remarkable Didier Dagueneau Jurançon Les Jardins de Babylone which served as a transition to the sweet desert course wine, Kracher Welschreisling TBA #8. We love this wine and consider it a standard bearer for sweet desert wines, akin to a quality ice wine or top ranked Sauterne in a good year. Our continued persistence in serving such a wine at dinners has made it a regular expectation that the group looks forward to.

Desert featured Linda's decadent chocolate mousse with homemade profiteroles, Gloria's creme brulee, and Marlene's lemon pound bundt cake, with fresh berries, assorted chocolate truffles, and chocolate caramels with sea salt.


Didier Dagueneau Jurançon Les Jardins de Babylone 2009 

If you can imagine a transition wine course as a palette cleanser ala a lemon sorbet, this was it.

Straw colored, medium bodied, polished, stunning, refreshing, crisp, clean, spirited acidity, a symphony of balanced flavors with touch of sweetness, tones of lemon accented by hints of peach, orange peel, pineapple and lychee fruits and wet stones.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1266324







Kracher Zwischen Den Seen Welschreisling Trockenberen Auslese (TBA) #8 2001

Classic Kracher nectar-of-the-gods mouth full of sweet fruit flavors. Its fun and interesting to watch these wines darken over time. Starting as straw or butter colored, they then turn to a rust color, then weak tea, then darker tea colored, even to coffee colored if left long enough. Not all are sufficiently long lived.

Deep orange/amber almost rust color, full bodied, thick unctuous nectar of ripe apricot, mango, lychee fruits with tones of peach, citrus, honey and hints of smoke on the tongue coating lingering finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19087

http://www.kracher.at/en/

Friday, February 28, 2014

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

OTBN 2014

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

OTBN 2014 on unwindWine.blogspot.com

This night's tasting featured a varied selection of wines following a couple themes. One  commemorating this year being the 4th decade for Linda and me featured the four decade anniversary vintages of '74, '84, '94 and '04. The others reflected the spirit of OTBN, to bring whatever label was desired for drinking that night. As is always the case, the occasion produced a great tasting event of fabulous and interesting wines, great wine and food pairings, fellowship, friendship and fun.

Bill and Beth hosted and prepared a great wine friendly dinner of beef tenderloin, duck breast, scalloped potatoes, haricot verts, green salad, caprese salad and a desert course. Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, and shrimp cocktail.  A mixed green salad was accompanied by a cold tomato based soup.

The 'line-up'.

The OTBN (Open That Bottle Night) tradition calls for the event to occur the last Saturday night in February. This year's event was postponed twice, initially due to an outbreak of the flu and then for another conflict. So we declared tonight's tasting to effectively became our fourth OTBN in this column. See our 2011, 2012 and 2013 OTBN reports.

As written in this blog to explain previous OTBN's, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin.   

The ritual for all our tasting events starts with the 'lineup', the exercise of lining up the bottles in the planned order of tasting. This is a fun debate that by default conforms to the prescribed tasting conventions - starting with the lighter and simpler wines first since a heavier or heartier wine will overpower lesser wines and you'll lose all sense of discrimination or calibration for them.

More precision on tasting order is:

Dry before sweet: This is probably the most important of the following rules, so if in doubt - opt for the "dry before sweet" rule. Sweet wines typically carry a long finish - drinking a dry wine with a short finish following a sweet wine with a long finish will almost always leave the dry wine tasting sour.

Old before young: Mature wines tend to provide the most subtle, elegant, and finessed nuances and should be sipped first to honor the complexity of the flavors that aging provides. Younger wines bear more tannin and fruit and will often wipe out some of the subtle qualities of older wines if tasted first.

White usually before Red: White wines are usually more delicate than reds - which is why many presume that red should always follow white. However, in some cases (ex. light Pinot Noir vs. full-flavored Voigners) sweeter wines pack a longer finish than dry wines, so save your sweet syrupy whites to follow drier reds for optimum flavor.

Light-bodied before full-bodied: The delicate flavors and aromas found in light-bodied wines will be missed entirely if consumed following tannic, robust reds.

Once the initial tasting order is set, part of the fun is testing it to see if we got it right based on the actual tasting results. Most often we get it right with just a few tweeks along the way. Again on this night, this was the case. 

Before we ventured into the flight, Bill served a pair of chardonnays with the pre-meal shrimp and assorted cheeses - Sancerre 2012 and Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009.

We started the red wine flight with two 1984 California Cabernet Sauvignons - Guenoc Lake County, and Silver Oak Napa Valley.

Guenoc Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

The story behind this bottle goes back to a tasting that occurred in July 1998 when I served a large format six liter bottle of this wine to colleagues from around the world at a global country managers meeting. Colleague Pete F and I entertained the group and I hosted a special wine tasting featuring 16 different wines from their respective countries from my cellar. One of the highlights of the tasting culminated with the 6 liter bottle the label of which we all signed (left). 

My notes from that event - "What do you expect from a 14 year old Lake County Cab? What a pleasant surprise to find this one full of berry, plum, cherry and an earthy mocha chocolate. This was tasted from a six liter bottle which no doubt held the fruit." 

The story about tonight's bottle resulted from our visit to the winery in the early 90's seeking a bottle of 1984 from their library. They said there weren't any for sale. When I told them I was holding this 6 liter bottle in my cellar for a special occasion and I wanted some from that vintage to 'test' before serving, they kindly obliged with a couple bottles. This is the last remaining bottle from that purchase. Read more about large format bottles.

I was prepared to dump this and move on to the next bottle, expecting that I had held onto this thirty year old for too long. Not to be as we were pleasantly surprised to find it was still holding was eminently drinkable, albeit with diminished color, structure and fruit being whispers of what they once were as noted above. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=34985

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

Notice (above) the Silver Oak '84 bears the old historic 'silver' label that today is used only for the Alexander Valley release while Napa Valley is now adorned by an upscale painted bottle branding and packaging.

As with the Guenoc above, this was still drinkable although it had diminished color and fruit. That Silver Oak signature oakiness still predominated and stood out over the subdued earthy berry and cedar leathery finish. 

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=22527


Leoville Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1994

From Bill's cellar. From a more modest Bordeaux vintage, this still showed classic left bank complexity of earthy leather and notes of cedar with smooth polished subdued blackberry fruit accent with a hint of anise on a nicely refined lingering tannin finish.

RM 89 points. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1174





Château Malescot St. Exupéry Margaux Bordeaux 2004


Bill had open this magnum of this savory Bordeaux to start the evening. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied with huge floral perfume aromatics that typify the best of Margaux. They give way to pleasant, nicely balanced black raspberry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, expresso, and hints of spicy mocha on a leathery tobacco finish. 


RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=87208





La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2004

Lyle brought this Tempranillo based Rioja Reserva.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruits give way to earthy, tobacco, spice, smoke and leather with a long balanced finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=844857




Peter Michael Les Pavots Sonoma County Knights Valley Red Wine 2005

Ernie brought these two Peter Michael selections from his cellar.

Les Pavots is an estate bottled Bordeaux blend from the slopes of Mt Helena above the eastern Knights Valley in Sonoma County.

Dark ruby colored, elegant and polished, full bodied with full complex concentrated layers of blackberry, black raspberry and blackcurrant with tones of black tea, cigar box and hint of dark mocha and cedar on a silky smooth finish.

Blend: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot & 2% Petit Verdot

This got huge reviews and scores - 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator
and 93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

RM 95 points.

 http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/

Peter Michael Esprit Des Pavots 2004

’Esprit des Pavots' literally means “The Spirit of the Poppies.” This wine is sourced from the original Les Pavots vineyard blocks recently replanted with the rarest and best clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, bright vibrant expressive full forward concentrated rich berry and plum fruits, smooth and polished despite complexity from hints of mocha, anise and black tea with full tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224266

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Red Wine 2004

Dan brought this and the Dominus Estate from his cellar - two napa Valley Bordeaux Blends. This may have been my favorite of the evening although the Les Pavots was a close second.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec

Another huge point scorer with  97 points from Wine Enthusiast, 94 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.

Dark ruby and inky purple color, full bodied, this required about an hour to open and reveal its true charachter and fruits - complex but elegant, balanced and polished, rich deep concentrated notes of blackberries, cassis, with hints of rich, crème caramel, sweet oak and cedar with smooth polished finely integrated tannins on the long finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=165834


Dominus Estate Napa Valley Red Wine 2010 

While this got a 100 point rating from Robert Parker, the most noted major reviewers, like so many Dominus releases, it may take a decade or more for it to reveal its full potential.

While clearly a spectacular wine, at this young age, its a bit closed and tight suppressing its fruits and other nuances.

Blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, firm, dense concentrated complex layers of black fruits, black tea, creosote and anise with hints cedar of spice and dark chocolate with firm tight but well integrated tannins on the finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1374630



d'Arenberg Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004

Ernie also brought this from his cellar. The '04 is as big and dense as Dead Arm gets but was not as sweet as some vintages.

Dark inky black purple color, full bodied, thick, dense, tongue-coating unctuous layer of ripe plum, black raspberry, ripe blueberry and a layer of anise and black cherry with a spicy long firm tannin lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246254



Taylor (Fladgate) Vintage Port Quinta de Vargellas 1974

I acquired this bottle at the legendary British wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd at their shop at 3 St James's Street London back in the early eighties. Back then of course you carry it in your hand luggage on the airplane.


Single Quinta Vintage Port (SQVP) is a title given to Port wines produced from a single vineyard (quinta) and from in a single vintage.


This is regarded by many as the most exciting category of port wine, since it offers the winemaker the opportunity to explore a more terroir-driven approach to fortified winemaking. An emerging style, SQVP started to gain popularity after 1986 when transportation restrictions were raised and smaller estates started to enter the market.

Single-quinta, or single-vineyard, vintage Porto is produced only in exceptional years in which a general vintage is not declared. Quinta de Vargellas vineyard has been part of the Taylor Fladgate estate for more than a century. It is known as one of the top 100 vineyards in the world with the highest percentage of old vines of any quinta in the Douro, with 60% over 75 years old. 


The 1974 vintage was a moderate year that was not declared by the major port houses. Some excellent single harvest colheitas were produced. For the vintage ports, despite a huge crop, very few vintage port-wines were bottled from this year and the bottles are very rare.

Quinta de Vargellas is the flagship of Taylor Fladgate's declared vintage Portos. In the best undeclared years, Quinta de Vargellas is produced on its own as a single-quinta vintage Porto.

While top vintage Vintage Ports often age for several decades, these SQVP's tend to last a decade or two so at forty years of age, this was pushing the limits of its aging window. Furthermore, the bottle and cork showed some signs of seepage although I don't recall ever noticing this in the cellar. Lastly, upon decanting, there was no less than a half a cup of sediment resembling coffee grounds in the bottom of the bottle. 

This was a bit lean in body and the color was a bit opaque and showed tones of rust color with an orangish hue. It had a big aromatic nose and flavors of intense concentrated black berries, black raspberry, and anise, with tones of cloves, cedar and touch of smoke with a big strong layer of high alcohol. It open immediately and continued to soften throughout the evening. It was drinkable and a tribute to our 1974 anniversary celebration but clearly nearing its end of life.  

Two nights later this was smooth and nicely balanced and resembled a moderate cognac which we enjoyed with some caramel, chocolate and berries. 

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36107

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto Quinta de Vargellas 1995

Lyle is a big port enthusiast and he matched my Taylor Fladgate with this vintage selection. 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, intense berry, dried raisins, fig with layers of cedar and anise with a long fruity, alcohol laced finish. 

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19047




The OTBN crew and their wine contributions to the flight are pictured below.

The hosts - Bill and Beth. 



 The author/blogger of unwindwine blogspot.


Tuesday, February 26, 2013

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2013


OTBN - Winners and Losers - Everybody Win(e)s

OTBN 2013 on unwindwine.blog.spot.com

 

OTBN 2013

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Its hard to believe a year has passed but its that time again - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night. With the inclusion of the next generation, our group grew from twelve to 28 resulting in an extraordinary collection and selection of wines that offered something for everyone. There were some new discoveries, a couple disappointments and some exceptional wines. Once again, OTBN - Open That Bottle Night provided great fun, food, friends and family, and of course, great wine in our OTBN 2013. Its hard to believe we surpassed the extravaganza of OTBN 2012. Also see our feature from OTBN 2011.

If you're new to OTBN, or to this blog, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin. 


  
The increased number of wines provided wine flights in their own right of Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and Australian Shiraz. There was also a selection of other Europeans and a medley from Central California.

Once again, Linda distinguished her hostess and hospitality skills by preparing a superb wine accompaniment dinner of beef tenderloin, pasta with grilled Italian Sausage, twice baked potatoes, green beans, corn casserole, and a dinner salad. Bev, Dan and Terry all brought a broad selection of cheeses, mixed nuts and berries. Gloria brough a 'flight' of chocolates of all cocoa percentage levels to pair with the various red wines. Ryan brought fresh shrimp cocktail, Cathy and Elise brought chocolate mousse, and I'm sure I regretably missed someone and their contribution.

But most notably, the evening was devoted to the fruits of the vine. Everyone outdid themselves with their wines selections - thanks for participating. 

The friends.... the wines

Some of the tasting highlights are posted.  


Ernie brought four Bordeaux - Chateaus Clinet 2008, Haut Gravet 2000,
Chateau Palmer 2006 and Lafon Rochet 1996.
The '08 Clinet was recommended by the Producer at the UGCB Tour recently and Ernie managed to obtain one, and then to share! Thanks Ernie.

  
Château Clinet Pomerol Bordeaux 2008
Ruby color, medium-full bodied, smooth, balanced, floral, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with hints of cassis and mocha, earthy leather, tea, and touch of spice on a polished moderate finish. 
RM 92 points. 

Chateau Palmer Margaux Bordeaux 2006
From the center of the Margaux appellation, this is the first of the great 'super second' producers, in this case, second only to the classic first growth Chateau Margaux. These classic wines have the potential to age for at least two decades in an average vintage and up to five in a great vintage, hence its easy to drink these wines too young but a great treat to watch them age by tasting a vintage over the years. 
The '06 was somewhat closed upon opening through two hours after decanting, showing medium to full body and a subtle floral nose with dark fruits of black cherries and blackberries with tones of subdued dark chocolate, tobacco, spice and sweet oak on a nicely polished and balanced moderate tannin finish; this very young wine needs at least another decade before it begins to display the full range of its true character and potential. Cabernet Sauvignon: 56%, Merlot: 44%
RM 91 points. 
 
Bill shared a heartfelt story about the year 1993 and brought three twenty years olNapa Cabernet Sauvignons to commemorate the year - Chateau Montelena, Grace Family Vineyard 29, Robert Mondavi Private Reserve and a Justin Isosceles 2000. The Grace may have been my top choice of the evening - certainly was short list favorite.

Grace Vineyards 29 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1993 
Inky purple color, medium-full bodied, smooth polished, complex black berry, black cherry fruits accented by layer of mocha with hints of tea, spice, oak, flint and smoke on a silky smooth tannin lingering finish. Surprising life in this 25 year old showing now signs of diminishing. 
RM 93 points. 
http://www.vineyard29.com/wines_29_cab_1993.html

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 1993

Bill's notes from earlier tasting. Medium garnet color, very restrained nose. Took about two hours for this to open up. Upon popping the cork, this showed signs of being well past prime. Seemed carmelized and thin although the color showed no bricking. Between 90 and 120 minutes, this opened to reveal anise, mocha and graphite and some remaining tannins.

WCC 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97829
 

Ryan following in footsteps brought two aged Bordeaux from the early eighties,
Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 and Grand Puy Ducasse 1984, and I pitched in a 1966 Suduiraut
Grand Cru Classe Sauternes
.

Following our recent gala tasting of these wines at the UGCB Tour of the 2010 vintage release, Ryan procured the Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere St Emiilon 1983 to commemorate Michelle's birthyear and the occasion of them expecting their first child! For a near vintage comparison test, he brought the Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac 1984, a challenging vintage, certainly not ageworthy like the '83. Regretably these bottles were beyond suitable drinking with their fruits having given way to leather and wood elements. Initial funk on opening did give way but the fruit never revealed itself over the ensuing days.
 Eric brought a collection of top flight bottles, Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz, Dom Perignon and Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Named for the address of the vineyard property purchased by this tandem of Hollywood entertainment industry executives, this small production hand crafted cabernet is a big bruiser fitting its oversize heavy almost magnum like bottle.

Nicely balanced and polished, dark purple color and full bodied with full forward black berry, black currant and spicy oak flavors with a layer of mocha, tea and hint of cassis on a lingering smooth moderate tannin finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159041

http://www.hollywoodandvinewine.com/

Spottswoode Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Served from Magnum. Lighter and more subdued than I expected - medium bodied, smooth and well balanced, hints of leather and tobacco on the nose, black berry and black cherry fruits, moderate, soft tannins on the finish. Holding its own for the age, perhaps due to the magnum, but not overly flavorful or structured. An expensive bottle for a grand occasion did live up to expectations, although was not flawed or diminished, just not impressive. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25904

Lyle brought a aged Dow Vintage Port 1977
and a Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2000

Lyle had the runaway best wine story of the evening that took everyone by surprise, no one saw it coming!  
 
Mark C brought two Eden Valley Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignons 2005, 2009.
Cabs from Paso Robles? - Undoubtedly the surprise discoveries of the evening!


Eden Canyon Paso Robles “Estate” Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This was the surprise discovery of the evening. Cabernet from Paso Robles? Here's one. The producer calls this "The Chocolate Vintage".  Medium body, black berry and black cherry fruits with hints of chocolate, cassis and a vanilla on a moderate, smooth tannin finish. The 2009 was nice too but not as polished, full bodied or flavorful, but still respectable, exceeding expectations with a 88 score.

RM 90 points.


 Justin brought a double magnum of James Tobin Paso Robles Rock--Roll Syrah 2007 signed by the winemaker. We had just announced that 'size counts' before Jared arrived late - did he have a mole?
Dan brought Sea Smoke Gratis Chardonnay, Valduero Gran Reserva and Clarendon Hills Astralis 
Rare sighting, the four amigos,
Eric, Rick, Bob & Dan.
Bob brought a duo of Napa Cabernets from Frog's Leap and Silver Oak and The Prisoner


Sara brought two Aussie Shiraz's, Shotfire and Hope.
'The house / (host)' served a pair of magnums from Napa Valley, Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 and Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, a vintage 1966 Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux, a Kracher TBA '6' 1998 and a pair of Italian sparklers.

Chateau Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux 1966
Still life in this 45 year old but notably past its prime and reaching the last chapter of its drinking window. Decent cork and acceptable fill level - further indications of the suitability of our cellar for long term aging. A blend of Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc.Dark caramel or weak tea in colour. Still flavorful but lacking that apricot nectar sweetness, rather, more weak tea and moderate almond nut flavor with very subdued honey and hints of citrus.

RM 87
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159298

http://www.suduiraut.com/  

Kracher Zwischen Den Seen Welschriesling Trockenbeereneauslese #6 1998 

Dark orange caramel tea colored, full bodied, essence of thick chewy unctuous apricot nector, hint of honey and almond on the finish, nicely balance of acidity and sweetness adds to length. At fifteen years this  is still in its prime.

RM 92 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27074

http://www.kracher.at/en/ 

Post Mortem - Unfortunate, bottles that were past their time, or unsuitable specimens:
  • Dow Vintage Port 1977 
  • Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 
  • Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 1984
The wines by flight - 
Flight Sparklers

Flight White Varietals

Duckhorn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Nice starting wine to set the pallete. An honest unadulterated wine that best reflects the fruit. Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp easy drinking with subtle flavors of citrus, melon, hints of lychee, pear and touch of peach turning to soft tones of grapefruit and lime notes on the finish.

RM 89 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=878604

http://www.duckhorn.com/Accolades/Sauvignon-Blanc/2009-Napa-Valley-Sauvignon-Blanc


 Flight Paso Robles

Flight Southern European Reds
Flight Bordeaux Rouge
 Flight Northern California (Napa/Sonoma) Cabernets

Flight Australian Shiraz

What a great opportunity to compare the flagship wines of these two premiere Australian producers, Kaesler and Clarendon Hills. I wonder if a better comparison might be the Old Bastard against Clarendon Hill's Piggott Range which is one of the biggest Syrahs I've ever experienced. Kaesler says it needs fifteen years of cellaring and can be held for fifty. By their own admission, Clarendon Hills refer to Astralis as being more 'svelte' in its balance and 'restrained power with super finely integrated extract, light on its feet and majestic once in focus." When compared against the extraordinary 2001, its easy to see Astralis being over powered by the bigger bolder Old Bastard, perhaps by design. 


Kaesler Old Bastard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2001 
The 2001 growing season in the south central Australian Barossa Valley was the hottest since 1904 resulting in immense full forward flavors and 15% alcohol content in this brooding monster. Dark inky purple colored and full bodied. Thick chewy tongue coating blackberry, black raspberry, plum, blueberry, with mocha and spice complexity. Aromas of vanilla, coffee and charred oak offer added complexity. 
RM 95 points. 

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf
Clarendeon Hills Astralis Shiraz 2004
The Astralis was medium to full bodied but more subdued than the big brooding Old Bastard. Dark purple colored it presented forward spicy blackberry and black raspberry ruits highlighted by a layer of cassis and hints of mocha and touch of vanilla. 
RM 92 points.
 Flight Desserts
 

 Picture Gallery - 
Lyle holding court - the story..
 
The Kracher TBA
Terry & Linda

How do you like that aged Sauternes?
Erin & Johnny and Jared,
Val and Ann
Elyse, Cathy, Ann, Erin
Johnny, Jared
Bill, Ryan, Mark.
Bill and Grace Vineyard 29
 Erin, Terry.

 The Forts
 Sean working the kitchen
Its that time again... OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall St. Journal (wine@wsj.com). They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or with a group. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning. Let the fun begin. 


So I spent the morning digging around in the cellar and found many candidates. So I decided to set aside those anniversary year bottles - those of the birth-years of the kids, and other special anniversary years. Those bottles have a reason for opening and their circumstances are set.Tonight is for that bottle lacking a reason - but for its own reason its special in some way. 



Here is a selection of bottles I found that were candidates - according to the criteria that they are getting old, need to be consumed and since I've been holding them for so long, they must be worthwhile and be for waiting for a reason. Why else would there be twenty, thirty-five (41 actually) year old bottles languishing down in the cellar!?! Several Bordeaux - two from 1982 - okay set those aside - birth year of #1 son, a 1975, and a 1970 - okay high school graduation year.. tonight?






Okay, so here is my runner-up for OTBN 2011 - a 1978 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon - it certainly must be time to drink this, ya? Fill level looks good, there is hope... 






Here is my selection for OTBN 2011 -  Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978 .



More to follow as the saga/evening unfolds and the OTBN selection (s) is unveiled - er uncorked !


 Final Flight - OTBN Selection -  Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978, Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1978, Cliff Lede Howell Mtn Chardonnay 2004, Freemark Abbey Edelwein Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest Gold 1999 Domaine Bruco Clair Cazetiers Premiere Cru Gevrey Chambertin Borgnogne 1993 and Freemark Abbey Bosche Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1986 (brought by Bill), Redheads Studio Return of the Living Red Cabernet Touriga NV (brought by Dan), and Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Vineyard Clarendon Syrah 2003.

The wines accompanied a dinner of beef tenderloin, medallions of lobster, twice baked potato, and salad, followed by fresh fruits and chocolate fondue. Starters included artisan cheeses - Fair Oaks Farm five year old aged sharp cheddar,  blueberry infused goat cheese, and a selection of olives. Attendees were Rick & Linda, Bill & Beth, Dr Dan & Linda, and Lyle and Terry.

Most Interesting Bottle - Redheads Studio - Return of the Living Red N.V. - RM 91 points
Interesting blend of NV (non-vintage) Australian Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga, a 'lost' varietal - hence the name. Dark garnet color, full bodied, thick chewy, almost shiraz like coating the tongue - forward black and blue fruits, ripe black raspberry turns to a tone of spice, hint of cedar and kirsch on a full, moderate soft chewy tannin finish. Brought by Dr Dan. The bottle was a gift from his brother. 


Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Vineyard Clarendon Syrah 2003 - RM 91 points: Dark garnet inky color. Full bodied, thick chewy, almost coating the tongue - forward black and blue fruits, ripe black raspberry turns to a tone of spice, hint of cedar and kirsch with a slight metallic/mineral undertone - ends with a full, moderate soft chewy tannin finish.
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape 1978  - RM 88 Points - Medium bodied - slight opaciity - garnet color - subdued black cherry fruit was overtaken by leather and a subtle tone of cigar box tobacco turning to anise on the moderate finish. Surprisingly moderate in density, color, fruit and finish. I remember buying this bottle on release (for $11.99) I have one more bottle left - the fill level was good and the cork fine although starting to be a bit soft. Still life left but I don't see long longevity in this wine


Jordan Vineyard & Winery Estate Bottled Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1978 - RM 88 Points.Opened two hours and it wasn't ready to drink although was approachable - it needed four or five hours to open and truly reveal itself ... fill level was good - low neck - cork was firm and tight - moderate garnet and slightly brownish color with slight opacity - medium bodied. After the funk wore off the subdued fruit of black berry and black cherry started to show - offset by leather, tobacco, hints of anise and tar on a modest finish. Nearing if not at end of life but not yet deteriorated. Still bears the original price tag of $19.95 although I don't remember purchasing this bottle. A perfect selection fitting the occasion OTBN. Given its age I was surprised it held up as well as it did. Another testament to the provenance and suitability of our cellar to age wines for decades. Lyle picked this as his favorite!   http://cellartracker.com/w?64348

Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard 1986 - RM 90 points. Dark purple color - medium - full bodied. Surprising vibrancy, breadth and depth to this 25 year old! Full forward fruit of black raspberry, black berry, and black cherry with a subtle tart tone, hints of leather and anise with moderate well integrated tannins on a lingering finish. Perhaps the surprise of the OTBN evening.  
Domaine Bruco Clair Cazetiers Premiere Cru Gevrey Chambertin Borgnogne 1993
Freemark Abbey Edelwein Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest Gold 1999 - RM 90 - Weak tea colored, medium-full bodied honey citrus flavors - slightly more subdued than last tasting two years ago, with a slight smokey finish.